one of paris's most charming moroccan restaurants occupies a much-restored building midway between place de la bastille and place de la nation. the minimalist decor combines futuristic architecture with bare sand-colored walls, accented only with sets of antique doors and portals from the sub-sahara. look for seven kinds of couscous, including versions with chicken; beef brochettes; or lamb, onions, and almonds. tagines are succulent dishes of chicken or fish prepared with aromatic herbs and slow-cooked in clay pots that are carried to your table.