one of paris's most charming moroccan restaurants occupies a much-restored building midway between place de la bastille and place de la nation. the minimalist decor combines futuristic architecture with bare sand-colored walls, accented only with sets of antique doors and portals from the sub-sahara. look for seven kinds of couscous, including versions with chicken; beef brochettes; or lamb, onions, and almonds. tagines are succulent dishes of chicken or fish prepared with aromatic herbs and slow-cooked in clay pots that are carried to your table.

jacques cousteau goes to asia at this tony japanese restaurant inside the new cinéaqua aquarium. flanked by a huge fish tank, the blond wood dining room fills with marc jacobs-clad couples and japanese globe-trotters who dine on thick-cut blocks of sashimi, beignet of monkfish with ginger, and cheesecake flavored with shiso.

it's the most famous cafe in the world, still fighting to maintain a left bank aura despite hordes of visitors from around the world. sartre -- the granddaddy of existentialism, a key figure in the resistance, and a renowned cafe-sitter -- often came here during world war ıı. wearing a leather jacket and beret, he sat and wrote his trilogy les chemins de la liberté (the roads to freedom). camus, picasso, and apollinaire also frequented the flore. according to the spokeswoman: "we will never change the decor." the menu offers omelets, salads, club sandwiches, and more.

le bouillon racine features a sophisticated belgian menu and an enormous selection of belgian beer. the food here is hearty and filling, even without the help of several thirst-quenching ales. the menu changes monthly and includes popular dishes like the casserole of mussels, shrimp and baby clams, suckling pig roasted with bitter orval beer, and rack of lamb roasted in a pale biere blonde. the décor is festive and the service efficient. reservations essential, open daily for lunch and dinner.